Alfa MiTo 955 BCM Proxi Coding HELP

[rroope]

Hi Folks

I've bought an Alfa Romeo MiTo that has a fault with its DRL bulbs (21w) - they flicker constantly, made worse by activating any lighting circuit (even pressing the front and rear foglight buttons when the light stalk is on position "0"). Wiring is ok, headlights are ok, so I got a cloned BCM - the fault went, and then came back. It's saying "Over Current" - does this mean somehow my BCM is configured for LED DRLs? My proxi coding is below:
30 31 31 34 35 30 30 38 33 34 33 4F 55 54 50 55 54 2D 4A 49 54 20 10 05 04 4F 84 00 04 10 00 00 00 09 04 00 04 10 00 00 00 97 E5 65 07 67 10 61 21 B3 00 00 2F 07 05 00 84 06 2D 01 3C 00 00 01 00 7A 51 0A 5C 0D 00 00 00 1D 00 00 00 00 37 02 41 05 38 00 00

Car is a 2010 MiTo 1.4 MultiAir 135 Veloce.

Is anyone able to review the proxi coding for me, or provide a custom proxi in a similar car for me to try? I've also got the system ID etc for the BCM if needed.

Thanks in advance!

[shpuncik]

are you sure it's not wiring problem - most likely bad ground or bad connection somewhere.

[rroope]

Checked all wires and bulbs. Plugged in a replacement BCM from
the same model and EVERYTHING including DRLs work fine. I just have no idea how to change immo, key coding and VIN.

[Stathispavl]

Hello everybody!! Sorry for the long message! I have a similar problem including the flashing drl I bought a month ago a mito 12-2008 155hp The owner scammed me as the airbag light was on and off.. he said that it was a small problem with the seat plug …
fast forward the car is 3 weeks in the electrician garage ! the problem is intermittent with airbag fault coming and goes by it self both yellow and red lights …while at the same time day lights flashing, parking radar unavailable, and rev and speedo needles sticking… all these happening together or don’t happening at all….
I started by my self checking and fixing the wiring loom at the hatch of the trunk as it is well known issue , changed the old battery and checked the voltage of the alternator
14.15V at 1250rpm (cold start) 14.10V at 850rpm
14.16V at 3000rpm
ground to the engine and to the body is good.I didn’t physically checked but took measurements to many different places of the car with load and without and seems well ! 0 or 0.1 oms and voltages don’t drop !
took it to an electrical shop as I thought that it was the end of the dIY and changed the airbag ecu they need to do a proxy alignment and they told me that my bcm is bad with 3 different vin numbers…(when they tried to get into the bcm to do the alignment they had a message that it is the wrong vin number) after a used bcm and a reprogramming bcm was working correctly but the other problems didn’t go away… they checked the wiring of the instrument cluster and installed a used instrument cluster circuit board to my cluster (so they say I wasn’t there) and the problem is still there…I don’t know what to do…….the problem is not related to speed bumps can it be a software problem that moved by cloning to the new used bcm…? The codes are these..