Multiecuscan

Hi all
Complete novice here.
I have just taken delivery of one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-409-1-KKL-VAG ... 2c5084f1fa

I have read all the posts, but still can’t understand how to get it to work for the airbag (i have plugged it in and got it working with the engine ECU in standard form). What is the Kline (“connect kline to pin 3”).
Do i have to physically cut anything or just solder in a wire between 2 pins. I like the idea of adding a dip switch to enable all functions, but is a bit beyond my skill level, so just for now i just want to reset the airbag light.

Is there anyone in the Southampton, Salisbury, Bournemouth area willing to modify for me ,( all costs covered of course)
Thanks
Mike

shelleyamy wrote:Do i have to physically cut anything or just solder in a wire between 2 pins. I like the idea of adding a dip switch to enable all functions, but is a bit beyond my skill level, so just for now i just want to reset the airbag light.

yes you have to cut the wire shown on photo by davan

cut this wire! when you cut this wire you will get left side of cut wire and right side of cut wire. Connect pin 3 with left side of cut wire and than you can connect to AIRBAG ECU!

p.s. davan sorry for copying your photo!

if it is too much, you can connect pin 1 + 3 + 7 and than you can start multiecuscan program and then you can connect to ECU (airbag + engine)!
but this is not recommended...

P.S. did you check AIRBAG contact below you seats?

yes you have to cut the wire shown on photo by davan

cut this wire! when you cut this wire you will get left side of cut wire and right side of cut wire. Connect pin 3 with left side of cut wire and than you can connect to AIRBAG ECU!

p.s. davan sorry for copying your photo![/quote]

Thanks Alfa
I took a chance and just solderd a wire between 3 and 7 and it worked fine. I was able to connect to the engine ECU and the airbag ecu.
I would still like to be able to insert a dip switch and have all the functions, including the VW capability.

Mike

alfa156sarajevo wrote:if it is too much, you can connect pin 1 + 3 + 7 and than you can start multiecuscan program and then you can connect to ECU (airbag + engine)!
but this is not recommended...

P.S. did you check AIRBAG contact below you seats?

Alfa156
There were 2 error codes stored both for passenger squib. One cleared the other stayed present, indicating the error was still there. I know there is an ongoing problem with the Puntos and the wiring by the glovebox. So i wiggled the yellow connector, and i was able to clear the last error. I am expecting it to come back, so am looking into a permentant fix.
Mike

Hi,

I have 2003 Punto with airbag warning light on. Just waiting to receive a KKL cable to have a go at resetting. I'm hoping that I have found and fixed the fault in the meantime. I read that the problem is often the wiring loom to the passenger side airbag inhibit switch and that there is a "dealer only" fix that involved a new bit of wiring loom. However, I suspect the connector at the switch. The pins on the switch side of the connector looked a bit tarnished so I took the switch apart (just two screws on the end) and cleaned the pins and also the switch contacts (a flat plate). A bit of metal polish did the trick. I noticed that inside the switch are a couple of resistors. In the "off" position the switch presents 400R to the controller. When "on" it presents 100R. This must be so that the controller can detect an open circuit or missing switch and flag a fault.

I then turned my attention to the two pin socket on the loom. Clearly this is not really "user servicable" hence probably what leads to the loom replacement solution. Anyway, I decided that I could (and would) take the socket to bits to clean that up as well. At the cable entry side there are a couple of tabs you can ease outwards to release a bit that is a kind of cable clamp (obvious when you look at it). The tricky bit was figuring out what else was holding the two contacts in the housing. Turned our to be internal clips that you need to release. A photo would have helped but I'll try to describe: Look into the socket, down the barrels so to speak, wires exiting away from you. Each contact appears as a solid part at the bottom and a thin split part at the top (it's not really split; the contact is one piece of plated brass wrapped around with the joint uppermost). Rest a watchmaker's flat bladed screwdriver about 1.5mm wide (or something similar) on the joint, blade horizontal, and push it down to meet and slide under the plastic clip. This will release the contact and the wire can be pulled out from behind. The clip has to bend up quite a bit but I don't think you would break it. Once the wires are out, you will see an indented part on the underside - I pushed that in a bit with the small screwdriver. I suppose a bit of solvent cleaner might help but I didn't bother with that.

To reassemble, the wires just click back into place and the cable clamp part also clicks back. Job done.

As I say, I await a cable to see whether that has done the trick and will post again when I know.

blackfish

Basically, the task of any wire loom is to properly channel your wires to their central location and keep them together neatly. Simple in principle and when done wire looms save a whole lot of time.